I
graduated from Austin
College in May 2006 with
majors in Asian Studies and History. I
was accepted to the Japan Exchange and Teaching (JET) Programme for the
2006-2007 year and in August arrived in my host town of Karakuwa.
The JET Programme informed me about Karakuwa prior to my departure. Situated in the northeast corner of the
northeastern prefecture of Miyagi, occupying a small peninsula that juts into Taiheiyō, the Pacific
Ocean, Karakuwa is a small, remote village of about 8,000 people.

1Karakuwa's location on map of Japan 2Karakuwa's
location within Miyagi
Prefecture
Fishing and sea farming, the
cultivation of sea plants, have long been the mainstays of the local
economy. From the moment I learned this
basic information, I was enthusiastic about living and working in an area that
seemed so culturally and economically reminiscent of Japan's traditional, bucolic past. Upon my arrival, as if to affirm that I had
come to the right place, Karakuwa's stunning aesthetic beauty seemed to say, "You
will like it here."
The Board of Education provided me with an apartment that looked out on
the ocean.
The quiet,
comforting sound of the waves and the clean smell of the air, as well as the
year-round moderate temperatures an ocean provides are things that I never grew
tired of or took for granted. The rocky
coastline below my apartment was part of a national park, the Rikuchu Kaigan
National Park, which stretches many
miles along the northeastern coast of Honshu, Japan's main island. Walking trails, some near the water and some
along the peninsula's hilly spine, wound through pine trees and bamboo forests
to ancient Shinto shrines.

3View from my apartment

4Path into a bamboo forest
Karakuwa fit right
into its idyllic surroundings. The town had
all the amenities - a post office, a grocery store, a convenience store, a drug
store, a hardware store, a clinic - and all were within a kilometer of my
apartment. The restaurants in town were
small, family-owned operations that served delicious miso soup, udon noodles,
and Japanese-style curry. Homes were large
and wooden with Japanese-style sloped roofs and sliding doors. Many had well-tended gardens stocked with
seasonal flowers and small, twisty trees.
Most families also maintained plots devoted to rice or vegetables.

5Karakuwa and surrounding hills
My job, Assistant Language Teacher (ALT), took me to Karakuwa's three
elementary schools and two junior high schools.
Through songs and games, I assisted other teachers in the instruction of
English. The classes were fun and the children
were (mostly) well-behaved, but my favorite moments were those outside of the
classroom when I was able to participate in educational activities that related
to Karakuwa's traditional culture. In
rural Japan,
many schools teach students the basics of farming, sea farming and
fishing. I was able to try my hand at
tending daikon (a large Japanese radish), drying seaweed and shucking oysters. Schools are also responsible for handing down
local traditions to each new generation of children. I got to don traditional clothing and learn
regional songs and dances, some that only Karakuwa's people perform. The children often laughed good-naturedly at
my relative ineptitude in the fields and on the stage, but such times provided
a helpful context of commonality in which both parties could learn about the
other's culture and language. The JET
Programme calls that "grassroots internationalization," and it is the
ALT's most important job.

6Teaching at a junior high
school

7Harvesting sweet potatoes with
students

8Learning a traditional song
and dance with students
I found that, for
me, one year would have been too short a time on JET. I wanted to continue to improve my Japanese
language abilities and enjoy more of what Karakuwa and Japan had to offer. I decided to stay on through the 2007-2008
JET year. In my second year I traveled
extensively within Japan,
strengthened my friendships with people in Karakuwa and ALTs from around the
world, and continued to enjoy the day-to-day of living abroad.
My background in
Asian Studies served me very well in Japan, and my experiences there
greatly augmented my understanding of the nation. I was prepared to see the world from a different
cultural viewpoint and to appreciate Japan
on Japan's
terms. In my interactions with my coworkers,
the students and the people in the community I saw constant examples of
communalism, saving face and filial piety. Familiarity with these concepts not only made
it easier for me to understand my cultural environment, but gave me the tools
necessary to make myself a part of it.
Still, many things
about Japan
surprised me – things, perhaps, that one must experience directly. An example that comes to mind concerns rice
paddies. Many times I had read about paddy
fields, I had even written about them in papers for classes. But never until my first springtime in Japan had
I heard mention of one salient fact about them, something that is important to
know if you live near them and keep your windows open in the warm evenings
around planting time: rice paddies are loud. The shallow, standing water attracts all
manner of amphibian and insect species, and their cacophony lasts until
dawn. Seems obvious, doesn't it?

9Rice paddy in Karakuwa
Following up an
Asian Studies major with two great years on the JET Programme gave me many
unforgettable hands-on experiences that related to my area of interest. I would recommend such a program to anybody
pursuing an Asian Studies degree, as I would recommend Asian Studies courses to
anyone considering a move to Asia.